Thursday, June 20, 2013

Toddler Dress Tutorial: The Zelda Dress


I knew when I received this fabric, The Ghastly's by Alexander Henry from Michael Levine over Fabric Weekend 2013, I knew I had to make a little dress for M.E. 
My inspiration came from this Roxy dress.

I pretty much have my daughter's measurements memorized, and based my pattern off of her measurements, and eyeballing the Roxy dress. But you could find a similar dress, and trace it. Eventually I will have my actual pattern pieces loaded on here.

Click on continue for the full tutorial

What you will need:
1 yrd of fabric
1/4 yrd or fat quater of contrasting fabric (I used a fat quarter)
1 package of bias tape or if already on hand, 24 inches to 1 yard, depending on how long you want you straps
scissors/rotary cutter
sewing machine
iron and ironing board
pinking shears
Sorry this picture is so blurry, I had no idea until I saw it bigger.
Bodice Top: cut 4 on fold, 2 of each fabric
 waist - 6 1/2 in, side seams - 4 1/2in, shoulder strap to waist - 7 in, mid neck to arm - 3 1/2 in, chest to arm - 7 in

Skirt: cut 2 on fold
waist to hem - 13 in, waistline - 10 in, hemline - 12 in, grade - 14 in

Hem border: cut 2 on grainline
24 in long X 4 in wide

Front ruffle: cut 1 on grainline
10 in long X 2 in wide

Bias Tape: cut 4 strips of equal length - 5 to 9 inches long

Start with the bodice, by pinning your right sides together, only at the underarms and neckline, leave the straps open for the bias tape to be sewn in. (I forgot to, so a couple of pictures wont make sense, just pretend I put the bias tape in....)
Insert the end of the bias tape up through the inside of the bodice, touching the right sides of fabric, leaving about 1/4 inch sticking out with the wrong sides of fabric. Pin down in all four strap places. Sew along your pins on each bodice.
This is where you are supposed to pretend the bias tape are sewn bad, forgetful brain.
Then snip the extra seam allowance with your pinking shears to allow the dress to curve when you turn it right side out. After turning right side out, press.

Next, we are going to do French seams. If you don't know what a French seam is, I apologize, I use it a lot and haven't ever explained it. So, just follow along if you are lost.
First, pin your wrong sides together on each side of the bodice, or your lining fabric facing each other. In which case, the inside lining fabric is facing each other on the inside. then sew your side seams at 3/8 seam allowance.
Should look like this. Leave a small opening at the bottom to be able to insert the skirt.
Now, trim the side seams as close to the stitching as possible. Turn inside out, and press.
Now, turn your right sides together and have your lining fabric facing out, pin at side seams and stitch in place, leaving a small opening at the bottom for the skirt.
Turn right side out again, and press.
Your bodice is now complete, minus the neckline ruffle. We will get to that though.

Now onto the skirt. French seam your sides together at a 3/8 seam allowance, then do a gathering stitch at the top of the skirt. Pull the bobbin thread until top of skirt is gathered.

Then take your bodice and fold the lining and outside fabric together, so that the right sides are folded in facing each other, press.

Then take your gathered skirt and pin it inside your nicely pressed bodice.

Sew it down and press.

Now we move onto the border hem. Take your two strips, fold them over, then press.

Then French seam the sides together at a 5/8 seam allowance, and press. Then attach border hem to the bottom of the skirt. Taking the right sides of each, face them together, double fold and pin. or you can single fold and pin, then serge after, like me. Then press.

I also reinforced the folded edge of the border hemline with a small stitch all the way around, just so I don't have to always iron it down after every wash. I'm lazy like that.

Now for the ruffle! Take your little rectangle, and double fold one length edge and both side edges, sew and press.

On the length edge you didn't fold and sew, take that and do a gathering stitch, then pull the bobbin threada until you get a nice, slightly gathered ruffle. Pin the ruffle to the neckline of the dress.

Then sew in place.

Dress is done. Now make your lil' munchkin wear it!

1 comment:

Sandi said...

Love this...very cute.